Waiters pan sear shrimp in garlic sauce tableside at this upscale Chinese restaurant near Columbia University. Market-fresh fish braised with herbal perilla leaf is another popular dish scenting the comfy space, whose walls are brightened by the artist Qiu Anxiong’s poetic murals. The Hunan-accented menu was created by Kaiyuan Li, who offers dishes like spicy pig feet and sautéed luffa with short-necked clam.