Open-fire cooking is what sets Mettā apart. Argentine chef Norberto Piattoni mastered the primordial skill during his days working for the world-renowned Francis Mallmann in South America. The locavore food at this 60-seat corner spot in Fort Greene is more New American than South American, however; vegetables and fish share the stage with fire-roasted pork, chicken and short rib steak. House-baked sourdough bread with cultured butter and charred beets with crème fraîche start things off right, as does old world wine selected by restaurateur Henry Rich, also behind Rucola.