Caviar spilling from a runny egg is one of many indulgences at this modern, classy David Chang–owned restaurant with two Michelin stars. He follows kaiseki principles for the tasting menu, primarily sourcing local, seasonal ingredients and employing a variety of culinary techniques. Uni is daringly paired with fermented chickpea puree, and fish gets cooked inside an eggplant. It’s fascinating to sit at the U-shaped counter and watch the cooks’ rigorous attention to detail.